Sunday, May 25, 2025

My Freezing Adventure on Ladakh’s Chadar Trek: A Story of Ice, Courage, and Frozen Toothpaste



Let me tell you about the time I walked on a river turned into ice. Yes, you read that right. For 8 days, I tiptoed over the frozen Zanskar River in Ladakh, where temperatures drop so low that even my sunscreen froze into a chalky brick. This isn’t your average mountain trek it's a wild, icy ballet where every step could crack the ice beneath you. Here’s what it’s really like to survive the Chadar Trek.   



Why Would Anyone Do This ? 

Picture this: You’re in a remote Himalayan valley, surrounded by cliffs so steep they block sunlight. The only sound is the crunch of your boots on ice, and the only path forward is a wobbly "blanket" of frozen river (Chadar means blanket in Ladakhi). Locals have used this route for centuries to trade goods in winter. Today, it’s a rite of passage for adventurers who want to say, “I walked on a river!”  



A Day in My Frozen Life Morning Routine (Brrr Edition):

- Wake up in a tent. Your breath has turned the sleeping bag’s edge into a frosty scarf.  

- Dig through your backpack to find your toothpaste… which is now a frozen tube. You’ll have to bite chunks off (yes, really).  

- Try to put in contact lenses. Oops—they’re frozen inside their case. Solution? Dunk the case in a mug of hot tea.  



Walking on Ice (Not the Disney Kind):

- Slide into microspikes (think metal claws for your shoes). The ice isn’t smooth—it’s cracked, bumpy, and sometimes see-through. You’ll spot turquoise water flowing beneath your feet.  

- Guides yell, “Don’t step on white patches!” (They’re thin ice.) Step on gray-blue spots instead. Easy, right? Not when your toes feel like Popsicles.  

- Lunch break: Sit on a rock, unwrap a frozen chapati, and pray your water bottle isn’t a solid ice block yet.  


Evening Victory Lap: 

- Set up camp on rocky riverbanks. The porters—Ladakhi legends—haul firewood on wooden sledges.  

- Huddle in the kitchen tent, thawing fingers over steaming soup. Someone cracks a joke about frozen wet wipes. You laugh, but it’s true—your “freshen up” routine is now a luxury.  




The “Oh Crap” Moments

1. The Broken Chadar: One morning, our guide announced, “The ice cracked overnight.” Detour? Climbing a cliff with ropes, praying your numb fingers don’t slip.  

2. Camera vs  River: I stopped to photograph a glittering ice pattern. Next thing I knew, my foot plunged into icy water. My camera sank. Lesson: Nature always wins.  

3. Frozen Everything:By Day 3, my moisturizer, sunscreen, and even hand sanitizer* had turned into icy bricks. I started storing them in my socks. Desperate times!  



What No One Tells You  

- You’ll Wear the Same Clothes for Days. Changing clothes = freezing your skin off. Embrace the stink.  

- Peeing is an Extreme Sport.Finding a private rock in -30°C wind? Good luck.  

- Ladakhi Porters are Superhumans .They sprint across ice in rubber boots, pulling sledges like it’s a walk in the park. Meanwhile, you’re gasping for air.  




How to Not Die (Tips from Someone Who Survived)

1. Layer Like a Onion:Thermals + fleece + down jacket + windproof shell. Add 2 socks. Still cold? Add more.  

2. Befriend Hot Water Bottles: Sleep with one. It’s your new soulmate.  

3. Walk Like a Penguin: Short, shuffling steps. Arms out for balance. Graceful? No. Effective? Yes.  

4. Laugh at the Chaos: When your wet wipes freeze, laugh. When your nose hairs frost over, laugh harder.  



The reason to go 

It’s not about bragging rights. It’s about those magic moments:  

- Sitting silently as sunlight hits a frozen waterfall, turning it into a diamond wall.  

- Sharing a tent with strangers who become friends, bonding over frozen Snickers bars.  

- Realizing you’re tougher than you thought. “Wait, I just walked 105 km on a frozen river ?!”



A Trek Disappearing Forever

Climate change is melting the Chadar. Locals say the ice is thinner now, the season shorter. In 10 years, this trek might vanish. Go now not just for the adventure, but to witness a dying tradition.  



Final Thought:  

The Chadar Trek isn’t a vacation. It’s a crash course in humility, resilience, and how to survive without showering for a week. But if you’re willing to embrace the chaos, you’ll leave with stories that’ll thaw even the coldest Zoom meeting back home.  


Ready to freeze your socks off ?🧊🥶

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